Published by Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum. Text by Sarah D. Coffin, Suzy Menkes, Ruth Peltason.
Since its opening on the place Vendôme in Paris in 1906, renowned jeweler Van Cleef & Arpels has played a leading role in setting style and design trends in luxury jewelry and in the development of the art of jewelry design. Van Cleef & Arpels pieces have been worn by such style icons as the Duchess of Windsor, Grace Kelly and Elizabeth Taylor, and the company's prestige has spread throughout the globe, thanks to an unending list of prominent commissions issued by royal and imperial courts and the world's rich and famous. Set in Style: The Jewelry of Van Cleef & Arpels explores the historical significance of the firm's contributions to jewelry design in the twentieth century, including the establishment of Van Cleef & Arpels in New York in 1939. The book features more than 350 of Van Cleef & Arpels' most celebrated works from museum and private collections worldwide, including jewels, timepieces, fashion accessories and objets d'art, focusing on those created exclusively for the American market. Six accessible essays accompanied by nearly 400 photographs, including previously unpublished design drawings from the Van Cleef & Arpels archives, examine the precious pieces through the lenses and themes of innovation, transformation, nature, exoticism, fashion and personalities.
Published by MFA Publications. Text by Pamela A. Parmal.
Barbra Streisand, Natalie Wood, Arlene Francis, Diahann Carroll, Joan Rivers, Mamie Eisenhower, Barbara Bush, Louise Nevelson... What these women have in common is that all were dressed by Scaasi. From his meteoric rise on Seventh Avenue in the late 1950s through his heyday in the boom decade of the 1980s, Arnold Scaasi has remained one of the most distinctive and successful designers in American fashion. With his signature combination of elegance, flamboyance, surprising colors and fabrics, and finely honed craftsmanship, Scaasi is both a bold American original and a couturier in the grand European tradition. Arnold Scaasi: American Couturier presents the best of Scaasi's fashions in a handsomely packaged, fluidly organized volume. Alongside sumptuous portraits of more than three dozen outfits, the book features numerous period photographs; sketches, notes and clippings from Scaasi's personal archives, most of them never before published; and interviews with Scaasi's famous clients, such as Joan Rivers, Mary Tyler Moore and Diahann Carroll, conducted specifically for this volume. A feast for fashion watchers and design aficionados alike, American Couturier contains all the glamour and thrill that for decades have been synonymous with the Scaasi label. Arnold Scaasi (born 1931) apprenticed at the House of Paquin in Paris, before moving to New York to work with Charles James. In 1956 he began a ready-to-wear line; in 1968, he caught the eye of a worldwide audience when Barbra Streisand wore his overblouse and pants ensemble to collect her Academy Award for Funny Girl, making Scaasi a household name overnight.
Published by MFA Publications. Text by Yvonne Markowitz, Elyse Z Karlin.
A new, imperishable beauty, was how the artist and architect Henry van de Velde described it. European Art Nouveau jewelry of the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries embraced a new aesthetic characterized by sensuous forms, dramatic imagery and vivid symbolism. Many of the designers associated with the movement sought their inspiration not in traditional jewelry, but in the work of the pre-Raphaelites and Impressionists and in the arts of Japan. Rejecting the rigid naturalism typical of European decorative arts, designers such as René Lalique and Henry van de Velde, and the artists of the German Jugenstil and Austrian Wiener Sezession movements, created ornaments that expressed the spirit and freedom of the era. These artists and designers adopted a free-flowing line and asymmetrical format that invigorated their work and set it apart, while their use of natural motifs and of the female form imbued their creations with energy, sensuality and dreamy mysticism. But underlying the undeniable exuberance of these works was a fin-de-sicle edginess that endows this period with inexhaustible fascination. With nearly 120 ornaments from a single private collection--the finest of its type in America--Imperishable Beauty features all of the major designers and jewelers from this groundbreaking era. Paintings, prints, posters and textiles fill out the presentation, making this book as rich and intoxicating as the aesthetic it portrays.
Published by MFA Publications. Text by Yvonne J. Markowitz.
A mode of expression that can be traced back to the earliest civilizations, jewelry can be as culturally revealing as it is stunningly beautiful. Artful Adornments: Jewelry from the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston features over 100 works of the jeweler's art from one of the most comprehensive jewelry collections in the world. With nearly 200 color illustrations, the dazzling array ranges from an emerald and diamond brooch once owned by cereal-fortune heiress Merriweather Post, to a rock crystal and gold amulet found in tomb of an ancient Egyptian queen and a twentieth-century kinetic necklace influenced by the mobiles of Alexander Calder. Magical jewels, emblems of wealth and power, tokens of affection, adornment as dress, and jewelry as expressions of avant-garde art movements are all discussed, revealing how a jewel painted with chopped bits of a loved one's hair can be just as precious--and no less decorative--than one encrusted with gemstones. Spanning five continents and nearly six millennia, this book introduces the reader to the variety and brilliance of the jeweler's art from around the world and throughout the ages.
Published by Phoenix Art Museum. Edited by Dennita Sewell.
Ann Bonfoey Taylor (1910-2007) was a pioneering female flight instructor during World War II, was a member of the US Olympic Ski Squad in 1939, competed in tennis at Wimbledon and was accomplished at riding and shooting. Recognized among an international jet-setting social circle as a wonderful hostess at her magnificent homes in Colorado and Montana, Taylor also played a leading role as a style icon. She was captured in photographs by artists such as Edward Steichen, Louise Dahl-Wolfe and Toni Frissell, and was regularly featured in publications such as Vogue, Town and Country and Harper's Bazaar from the 1930s through the 1970s. In 2008, her extraordinary wardrobe of couture and custom-designed sporting ensembles was donated to Phoenix Art Museum. Selected by Art and Antiques as one of the top 100 art museum gifts of 2008, Taylor's impressive collection features works by some of the most masterful fashion designers of the 1950s and 60s, including Charles James, Balenciaga, Givenchy and Madame Grès. The collection is significant for both the quality of the designers and for its depth, as the numerous examples allow for a comprehensive look at each designer's artistic process. Fashion Independent: The Original Style of Ann Bonfoey Taylor features more than 60 full ensembles and accessories that provide a comprehensive look at the wardrobe of a dynamic and sophisticated woman.
PUBLISHER PHOENIX ART MUSEUM
BOOK FORMAT Clth, 9.5 x 12 in. / 140 pgs / 130 color / 15 bw.
PUBLISHING STATUS PUB DATE 4/30/2011 Active
DISTRIBUTION D.A.P. EXCLUSIVE CATALOG: SPRING 2011 p. 173
PRODUCT DETAILS ISBN 9780984408115TRADE LIST PRICE: $60.00 CDN $70.00
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Published by Goliga. Edited by Ivan Vartanian. Text by Valerie Steele, Tim Blanks, Philip Delamore, Stella Bruzzi. Conversations with Manolo Blahnik, Nicholas Kirkwood, James Crump.
The high-heeled shoe conjures self-assured allure and erotic intoxication like no other item of women's wear. Just recently the high heel has undergone a massive resurgence in popularity, in part reinventing itself through an overt invoking of fetish, with which the heel has of course always had some relationship. Built around a selection of images of heels from contemporary photography, High Heels: Fashion, Femininity and Seduction explores the confluence of art, fashion and fetish in the cult of high heels swooping down the fashion show runways and city streets everywhere. Illustrated with works from photographers such as Guy Bourdin, Juergen Teller, Bettina Rheims, Marilyn Minter, Tim Walker, Steven Klein, David Lachapelle and Vanessa Beecroft, among many others, High Heels also includes several important texts: an essay by Valerie Steele on the industry forces behind high-heel design; Tim Blanks of Style.com interviews Manolo Blahnik and Nicholas Kirkwood; Philip Delamore describes the technological developments behind the extreme contours of recent shoe design; Stella Bruzzi on high heels, gender, and representation in film; and an introduction by Ivan Vartanian, in conversation with James Crump, discusses the high heel as a vehicle for discussing a fetish for photography in general. High Heels is a visual odyssey through the powerful ideas of beauty, danger and seduction that the high heel evokes.
BOOK FORMAT Hardcover, 9.5 x 11.5 in. / 192 pgs / 120 color.
PUBLISHING STATUS PUB DATE 1/31/2012 Out of print
DISTRIBUTION D.A.P. EXCLUSIVE CATALOG: FALL 2011 p. 178
PRODUCT DETAILS ISBN 9781935202691TRADE LIST PRICE: $49.95 CDN $60.00
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STATUS: Out of print | 00/00/00
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Published by MFA Publications. Text by Kelly H. L'Ecuyer. Contributions by Michelle Tolini Finamore, Yvonne J. Markowitz, Gerald W. R. Ward.
Studio jewelry is defined not by an aesthetic or philosophy, but by its makers and their work process. Studio jewelers are independent artists in small workshops, directly handling their materials and producing one-of-a-kind pieces that are both decorative object and fine sculpture. As recognition of American studio jewelry has increased in recent years, so has the need for a comprehensive history--and this beautifully designed and lavishly illustrated volume is that book. Featuring over 150 bracelets, brooches, necklaces and rings from the world-renowned Daphne Farago Collection, Studio Jewelry presents the major events, ideas and individuals who shaped the field, and maps its evolution since it emerged within the modern studio craft movement. It also addresses the questions underlying the history of studio jewelry: jewelry as sculpture and personal adornment, the relationship between jewelry and the body, the use of non-traditional materials and the cultural meaning of the pieces. Finally, the book spans the variety of approaches in the field, while offering in-depth discussions of such key artist-jewelers as Alexander Calder, Art Smith, Margaret De Patta, Robert Ebendorf and Gijs Bakker. Much more than the catalogue of an important individual collection, Studio Jewelry is an essential reference work for anyone creating, teaching or collecting in the field of studio jewelry today.
Published by Chris Boot. Introduction by Paul Smith.
With photography, I like to create fiction out of reality. I try and do this by taking society's natural prejudice and giving it a twist, says British photographer Martin Parr, who is most known for his satirical images of the ostentatiously wealthy. Luxury is Parr's epitaph to the age of conspicuous consumption, with candid images of the fabulously wealthy on the international party circuit: champagne-fuelled lunches, horse races, Moscow's Millionaire Fair, the Dubai Art Fair and the Beijing Motor Show, to name a few locales. Both biting and affectionate, this series, which comprises 35 works created between 2003 and 2009, is part of the touring exhibition Parrworld. Documenting the trends, tastes and social mores of the bourgeoisie--diamond encrusted jewelry, pure breed puppies, racecars, endless canapés and empty champagne bottles--Parr succeeds in capturing the cliché-laden tedium of excess, while making the whole scene seem a little more human. "Parr's mobile perspective and viewpoint is that of a housefly;" critic Neal Brown writes, characterizing the photographer's style as "buzzing around people's heads, landing on the edges of their plates and food displays, and viewing everything as a fantastically enlarged, over-colored world upon which to masticate regurgitated vomit, and enjoyably shit." Exquisitely designed, this volume--with a padded, gilt-foiled mock-leather cover--is the perfect souvenir of the era before the bubble burst. Also featured is an introduction by leading fashion designer and Martin Parr fan, Paul Smith.
Until Coco Chanel came along, black was usually only worn by women on occasions of mourning; in the late nineteenth century, when worn outside such occasions, black clothing was even considered indecent (as instanced by the controversy attending John Singer Sargent's "Portrait of Madame X"). But in 1926, Chanel overturned centuries of convention by publishing a photograph in an issue of Vogue of a dress she had designed that came to be known as "the little black dress" (or "LBD"). Chanel's little black dress was cut simply, usually featured a short skirt, and was designed primarily for durability, affordability and versatility. An immediate hit with women from across the social spectrum, the popularity of the little black dress persisted even into the Great Depression, and for nearly a century it has continued to symbolize the modern woman, flourishing through every decade where most dresses would flounder (Vogue once described it as "Chanel's Model-T Ford"). Among the many celebrities who have made it a part of their personal style are Audrey Hepburn, Betty Boop, Wallis Simpson and Edith Piaf. Here, in celebration of this classic garment's enduring appeal, Swarovski AG has commissioned 22 of today's leading fashion designers, including Giorgio Armani, Vivienne Westwood, Donna Karan and Jean-Paul Gaultier, to design one little black dress apiece. All dresses will be sold at auction, at Phillip's New York gallery during Fashion Week Fall 2010. 22 Ways To Say Black pays homage to the legacy of Chanel's masterpiece, illustrating all 22 dresses in lavishly staged photographs. A limited quantity of this title is available.
PUBLISHER SWAROVSKI AG
BOOK FORMAT Hardcover, 9.75 x 12 in. / 144 pgs / 70 color.
PUBLISHING STATUS PUB DATE 9/30/2010 Out of print
DISTRIBUTION D.A.P. EXCLUSIVE CATALOG: FALL 2010 p. 141
PRODUCT DETAILS ISBN 9783033023734TRADE LIST PRICE: $40.00 CDN $50.00
AVAILABILITY Not Available
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Published by MFA Publications. Essays by Pamela A. Parmal, Lauren D. Whitley, Susan Ward, Alexandra B. Huff and Tiffany Webber-Hanchett.
Humans have been producing textiles since the days of hunting and gathering. Over time, those primitive woven baskets, animal-skin garments and woolen coverings have given way to the increasingly sophisticated and varied clothing, furnishings, accessories and decorations that surround us today. This comprehensive introduction presents 100 of the finest textiles and fashion arts produced by weavers, embroiderers and designers around the globe. Twenty-nine short essays introduce some of the major techniques and genres of the last 25 centuries, weaving links between the objects and the context of their creation. Topics range from the expansion of medieval silk production throughout the Islamic empire to the transformation of Andean weaving under Spanish domination, and from the political and Confucian symbolism of Chinese dragon robes to the reemergence of French couture after World War II. Richly decorated, finely crafted, and extraordinarily varied, the textiles featured in this concise, handsome volume demonstrate the artistry and innovation that elevate these functional objects to works of art.