Not in Fashion
Photography and Fashion in the 90s
Edited by Susanne Gaensheimer, Sophie von Olfers. Text by Michael Bracewell, Jason Evans, Jule Hillgärtner.
Fashion photography is about much more than just depicting clothes. Far larger conceptions of glamour, culture, sex and consumption play out every month in two-page advertising spreads in Vogue and W, and in the editorial shoots of Purple and V. Brazenly occupying the fraught overlap between art and commerce, the most provocative fashion photography combines exquisite come-ons with subtle affronts, to convention, to propriety, to our pride. The 1990s constituted an exciting moment in fashion photography, as a generation of practitioners made work that was bluntly physical and brash, celebrating music, subculture and intimacy in the most creative fringes of twenty- and thirty-something life. Not in Fashion collects some of the strongest photographs, campaigns and picture series from magazines of the 1990s--much of which was done by photographers who maintained careers as fine artists while executing editorial and campaign work for some of the industry's leading designers and publications. This volume includes seductive, challenging work by artists including Vanessa Beecroft, Walter van Beirendonck, Bernadette Corporation, Ayzit Bostan, BLESS, Mark Borthwick, Susan Cianciolo, Maria Cornejo, Corinne Day, Anders Edström, Jason Evans, Helmut Lang, Martin Margiela, M/M (Paris), Cris Moor, Kostas Murkudis, Collier Schorr, Nigel Shafran, Juergen Teller and Wolfgang Tillmans."