Morris Engel

In 1951, her photograph American Girl in Italy—depicting a young woman on a street flanked by whistling men—made Ruth Orkin (1921–85) a household name. Now, a new facet of her work emerges through sensational never-before-seen negatives and slides. Women illustrates Orkin’s devoted, humorous, witty and sensitive documentation of women’s life in the 1940s and 1950s. She records the illustrious goings-on in beauty salons and at cocktail parties, at dog shows and on Hollywood sets. We meet Lauren Bacall, Jane Russell, Joan Taylor and Doris Day, but also waitresses, stewardesses, female soldiers and best friends. Whether gazing directly into the camera, looking away from it or even laughing at something outside of the frame, Orkin’s snapshots of women reflect their increased career mobility, consumer power and social influence in the postwar era.

At the age of 17, American photojournalist Ruth Orkin (1921–85) traveled across the United States alone, with nothing but her bicycle, photo equipment and $25 in her pocket. Over a four-month period, she took 350 photographs: urban scenes, numerous self-portraits and striking compositions framed by her bicycle. In each city she visited, local newspapers covered her story, interviewing and photographing her. With the unexpected publicity, she was invited everywhere, given tickets to shows and even gifted a new two-wheeler. Orkin’s stated aim upon departure was to visit the New York World’s Fair, but the transcontinental adventure proved far more decisive. It was a defining moment in her personal and artistic development, confirming the old adage: it’s not the destination, it’s the journey.
The inaugural project of one of the great 20th-century American photographers is unveiled here for the very first time. A text by French photography historian Clément Chéroux accompanies the photo project, illuminating the historical and aesthetic context of Orkin’s American romp. An image of a bold, modern woman with a bold, modern photographic philosophy emerges into view.