“Vermeer Noir” might be an apt description of Dutch photographer Erwin Olaf’s disquieting image repertoire. His subjects are posed indoors, immobile, somewhat in reverie and bathed in nearby window light--but not tranquilly so. An atmosphere of sinister but clinical indifference attends both them and their environments, rendering them into beautiful but dislocated mannequins in catalogue-furnished interiors. All sense of belonging to a place is eliminated. Each richly colored and sleekly composed image offers a sly reinterpretation of Norman Rockwell-like iconography and characters, manifesting a nostalgia that both burlesques and celebrates America of the 1950s and 60s. Dramatic emotions are hinted at but left ambiguous; certainly nothing in the models’ surroundings suggests a cause. Here, across three themes of Hope, Grief and Rain, Olaf blends mid-century Modern and Noir in the lens of contemporary fashion. Avocado greens, golden-hued oranges and subtle lilacs brighten and deaden simultaneously, sending an irresolvable tension through his scenarios like an electric current. This tension, strung between the polar effects of zing and muteness, is the line Olaf treads in his pictures. As a whole, the work defines what critic Jonathan Turner usefully describes as “Olaf’s recent fascination with the visual representation of such emotions as loss, loneliness and quiet despair... [He] plays games with the idea of cold reality versus cruel artifice, capturing that precise moment when innocence, hope and joy are lost.” The book comes with a DVD.
Published by Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum. Text by Sarah D. Coffin, Suzy Menkes, Ruth Peltason.
Since its opening on the place Vendôme in Paris in 1906, renowned jeweler Van Cleef & Arpels has played a leading role in setting style and design trends in luxury jewelry and in the development of the art of jewelry design. Van Cleef & Arpels pieces have been worn by such style icons as the Duchess of Windsor, Grace Kelly and Elizabeth Taylor, and the company's prestige has spread throughout the globe, thanks to an unending list of prominent commissions issued by royal and imperial courts and the world's rich and famous. Set in Style: The Jewelry of Van Cleef & Arpels explores the historical significance of the firm's contributions to jewelry design in the twentieth century, including the establishment of Van Cleef & Arpels in New York in 1939. The book features more than 350 of Van Cleef & Arpels' most celebrated works from museum and private collections worldwide, including jewels, timepieces, fashion accessories and objets d'art, focusing on those created exclusively for the American market. Six accessible essays accompanied by nearly 400 photographs, including previously unpublished design drawings from the Van Cleef & Arpels archives, examine the precious pieces through the lenses and themes of innovation, transformation, nature, exoticism, fashion and personalities.
Published by Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum. Edited by Matilda McQuaid, Susan Brown. Text by Matilda McQuaid, Petra Timmer, Matteo de Leeuw-de Monti.
Painter, textile and stage designer and co-conspirator (with her husband Robert Delaunay) of the Orphist movement, Sonia Delaunay is a heroine of early modernist art and design. Known primarily as an abstract painter and colorist, Delaunay applied her talents and theories to all areas of visual expression, including graphics, interiors, theater and film, fashion and textiles. A characteristic of Delaunay's work is a vivid sense of movement and rhythm through careful color combination. Color Moves: Art & Fashion by Sonia Delaunay focuses not only on her art but also her avant-garde fashion designs for her Atelier Simultané in Paris during the 1920s, as well as textiles she designed for the Metz & Co department store in Amsterdam in the 1930s. The book features essays by Delaunay experts Matteo de Leeuw-de Monti, Matilda McQuaid and Petra Timmer, accompanied by more than 300 paintings, drawings, designs, textiles, garments and photographs. Born Sarah Ilinitchna Stern, in the Ukraine, Sonia Delaunay (1885-1979) was raised in St. Petersburg, in Russia. After a brief period of study in Germany, she moved to Paris in 1905, and began painting in the Fauve style of Matisse and Derain. In 1909 she met Robert Delaunay, and together they devised a brighter version of Cubism that their friend, the poet and art critic Guillaume Apollinaire, termed Orphism. Also among their friends was the poet Blaise Cendrars, and one of Delaunay's best-known works is her 1913 accordion-fold artist's book collaboration with Cendrars, La prose du Transsibérien. In addition to her prolific 75-year painting career, she created brilliant textiles and fashion works for nearly three decades.
Published by Damiani. Conversation with Marc Jacobs. Text by Maripol.
When Madonna's Like a Virgin came out in 1984, it wasn't just the songs that made a splash, it was her look. That crucifix jewelry! Those earrings! Those black rubber bracelets! The accessories that gave Madonna her stylistic edge and sparked millions of prepubescent copycats across the globe were the brainchild of Maripol, a designer and stylist who was working at the time as the art director of the Fiorucci store. "I was attracted by objects and I liked to use them by taking away their original meaning," Maripol has said. "I would see something I liked and I'd say, 'That would be great as an earring.'" An habitué of the same New York dance clubs as the singer, Maripol styled Madonna at the outset of the Material Girl's career, both casually and also officially, on the Like a Virgin album cover, ensuring the singer an eternal spot in the pantheon of pop style icons. "I was already making the rubber jewelry and I was already making the crosses because of my love for the punks," she said. "So it was perfect for her." Now Maripol, who has just launched a new line of colorful, affordable accessories for Marc Jacobs, opens up her scrapbooks of drawings, designs, photography and writing to create a book that captures her personality as an artist, beginning with her childhood and her arrival in New York as a 19-year-old art school student. Maripol moved to New York from France in 1976, where she became a part of the New York clubbing and music scene, styling Madonna and working on films such as Downtown 81 (starring Jean-Michel Basquiat and Deborah Harry). In the mid-1980s, she opened her own boutique, Maripolitan, in the NoHo area of New York. Maripol has also been art director on music videos for Cher, D'Angelo and Elton John, among others.
Published by Editions Xavier Barral. Text by Oliviero Toscani.
One of the Polaroid's acknowledged masters, Guy Bourdin (1928-1991) brought to the medium an uncanny ability to combine the snapshot feel with a strong patina of glamour, and of course plenty of sexiness. A protégé of Man Ray, and best known today for his controversial fashion photography, Bourdin like his teacher often brought an edge of menace or discomfort to his eroticism, with surrealistic props and implied narratives. Like the Surrealists, he often devised ways to bisect the female form, usually by cropping out above the waist; all these traits of Bourdin's fashion photography are to be found here, in this selection of 98 Polaroids, most of which have never previously been published. Ranging in formality from casual seaside erotica to darkened interiors with disembodied legs and arms poking into the frame, these images step outside the safety of the fashion shoot, conjuring a real-life realm steeped in an ominous sexuality.
Published by Freedman Damiani. Edited by Dennis Freedman. Interview by Jeff Rian.
Between 1997 and 2008, Philip-Lorca diCorcia completed 11 photographic portfolios in collaboration with W magazine's creative director Dennis Freedman. In their epic scope and visual luxuriance, these enigmatic and glamour-soaked photographic narratives stand as one of the most ambitious editorial projects of the last decade. DiCorcia and Freedman traveled the globe to make these stories, deploying fabulous locations ranging from a Lautner house in Los Angeles and the Mariinsky Opera House in St. Petersburg to Windows on the World at the top of the World Trade Center and a notorious "club échangiste" (swinger's club) in Paris. The cast of characters included iconic models Nadja Auermann, Guinevere van Seenus, Kristen McMenamy, Karen Elson, Shalom Harlow and Hannelore Knuts, the actress Isabelle Huppert, the designer Marc Jacobs plus people cast on location. DiCorcia's fashion stories are collected for the first time in this superbly designed monograph, and reveal themselves as a masterpiece of staged photography and photographic storytelling. Philip-Lorca diCorcia was born in Hartford, Connecticut, in 1951. He received his MFA in Photography from Yale University in 1979. DiCorcia's work has been the subject of solo shows at The Museum of Modern Art, New York, the Institute of Contemporary Art, Boston, the Centre National de la Photographie, Paris, Whitechapel Art Gallery, London and the Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofia, Madrid, among others. He has been named a Guggenheim Foundation Fellow and has received multiple grants from the National Endowment for the Arts. His work is included in the collections of the Bibliotheque Nationale de France, The Museum of Modern Art and the Metropolitan Museum of Art, among others. His previous books include A Storybook Life (2003) and Thousand (2007), a collection of Polaroids that was exhibited at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art. DiCorcia lives and works in New York City.
One of the foremost fashion and magazine cover photographers of the past two decades, American photographer Mark Abrahams has straddled the gap between fashion and celebrity portraiture with guileless simplicity and exacting care. A self-taught photographer, Abrahams portrays his subjects with an introspective depth and candor. His subjects run the gamut of the A-list: Julianne Moore, George Clooney, James Franco, Dakota Fanning, Sean Diddy Combs, Ashley Olsen, Dennis Hopper, Lindsay Lohan, Larry Clark, Michelle Obama, Ed Ruscha, Philip Roth, Roberto Bolle, Evander Holyfield, Kate Winslet, Justin Timberlake, Tom Hanks, Rachel Weisz and countless others. This volume provides a dazzling parade of the glitterati under Abrahams' lens, devoid of affectation or artifice. Abrahams is donating his portion of the proceeds from this book to benefit Hope For Haiti Now. Mark Abrahams was born in 1958 in Santa Ana, California. The gift of a Nikon FM from his mother ignited his passion for photography. Working as a truck driver by day, Abrahams transformed his tiny bathroom into a functioning darkroom to develop film, retouch negatives and manipulate surfaces at night. Against all odds, in the early 1990s Abrahams found himself shooting iconic musicians, jetting to Milan with supermodels and landing editorial shoots with L'Uomo Vogue, Deutsch Vogueand GQ.
Published by FUEL Publishing. Edited by Jonny Trunk, Damon Murray, Stephen Sorrell.
For early devotees of leather, rubber and vinyl fetish wear, Atomage magazine was the underground bible of the 1970s. Founded, designed and published by the English designer John Sutcliffe as a platform for his extraordinary talents as a manufacturer of weatherproofs for lady pillion riders, it quickly became a rallying point for explorers of every kind of fledgling clothing scene, functioning as both an instruction manual and a mirror. The experimental clothing showcased in its pages, including items made by the readers themselves, transformed a passion for a sexual proclivity into a cult phenomenon. From motorbiking and mask-wearing, to mudlarking and wading worship, Atomage covered every conceivable variant on and use for fetish wear. The amateur photographs reproduced here reflect a golden age of DIY enthusiasm, before fetish became the industry it is today, and inadvertently depict a suburbia from which dressing for pleasure was a necessary escape. The outrageous costumes found in Atomage also served as inspiration to a then-new generation of fashion designers such as Vivienne Westwood, and many of these costumes have since been acquired by high-end collections. Compiling the most astonishing imagery from all 32 issues of this now extremely rare and sought after cult magazine, Dressing for Pleasure illustrates not just Sutcliffe's exceptional designs, but also, through their own photography and writings, the fantasies and desires of the Atomage followers.
Published by JRP|Ringier. By Kate and Laura Mulleavy. Photographs by Catherine Opie, Alec Soth. Edited by Brian Phillips. Text by John Kelsey.
California Condors, Boris Karloff as Frankenstein, Japanese horror films and Gordon Matta-Clark are among the many influences that make up the world of Rodarte. In just five short years, Rodarte has upended the fashion scene, bringing Kate and Laura Mulleavy, the designers behind the company, to the forefront of contemporary design and visual culture. Kate and Laura, who live and work between downtown Los Angeles and Pasadena, California, have consistently brought their love of nature, film, art and science to bear upon their unconventional and exquisitely crafted collections. Burning, sanding, dyeing, knitting, twisting, staining and weaving are some of the many complex techniques that have entered into the Rodarte textural vocabulary. Kate and Laura's past collaborations have included artists, actors, musicians and writers such as Miranda July, Autumn de Wilde, Ryan McGinley, Ari Marcopoulos and Darren Aronofsky. Created in collaboration with two of the art world's most sought-after and acclaimed photographers, Catherine Opie and Alec Soth, this is the first publication to examine the world of Rodarte. For the occasion, each photographer has developed an entirely new body of work in collaboration with Kate and Laura Mulleavy, examining the many facets of Rodarte's creative spectrum. Without any formal training in fashion, California-raised sisters Kate and Laura Mulleavy, working as Rodarte, have become the most celebrated American designers at work today. Celebrities such as Kirsten Dunst, Natalie Portman and Charlotte Gainsbourg have all expressed their admiration for the Mulleavys, and Michelle Obama wore Rodarte at the opening ceremony of the 121st IOC session at the Copenhagen Opera House.
Published by Phoenix Art Museum. Edited by Dennita Sewell.
Ann Bonfoey Taylor (1910-2007) was a pioneering female flight instructor during World War II, was a member of the US Olympic Ski Squad in 1939, competed in tennis at Wimbledon and was accomplished at riding and shooting. Recognized among an international jet-setting social circle as a wonderful hostess at her magnificent homes in Colorado and Montana, Taylor also played a leading role as a style icon. She was captured in photographs by artists such as Edward Steichen, Louise Dahl-Wolfe and Toni Frissell, and was regularly featured in publications such as Vogue, Town and Country and Harper's Bazaar from the 1930s through the 1970s. In 2008, her extraordinary wardrobe of couture and custom-designed sporting ensembles was donated to Phoenix Art Museum. Selected by Art and Antiques as one of the top 100 art museum gifts of 2008, Taylor's impressive collection features works by some of the most masterful fashion designers of the 1950s and 60s, including Charles James, Balenciaga, Givenchy and Madame Grès. The collection is significant for both the quality of the designers and for its depth, as the numerous examples allow for a comprehensive look at each designer's artistic process. Fashion Independent: The Original Style of Ann Bonfoey Taylor features more than 60 full ensembles and accessories that provide a comprehensive look at the wardrobe of a dynamic and sophisticated woman.
PUBLISHER PHOENIX ART MUSEUM
BOOK FORMAT Clth, 9.5 x 12 in. / 140 pgs / 130 color / 15 bw.
PUBLISHING STATUS PUB DATE 4/30/2011 Active
DISTRIBUTION D.A.P. EXCLUSIVE CATALOG: SPRING 2011 p. 173
PRODUCT DETAILS ISBN 9780984408115TRADE LIST PRICE: $60.00 CDN $70.00
AVAILABILITY In stock
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