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STAFF PICKS | FROM THE SHELVES

AVERY LOZADA | DATE 9/12/2015

Fashion: The Classics

Arthur Elgort: The Big PictureSteidl
Vogue: Like a PaintingMuseo Thyssen-Bornemisza
Terence Donovan FashionArt / Books
F.C. Gundlach: Photographic WorkSteidl & Partners
Arnold Scaasi: American CouturierMFA Publications
Jesús del PozoTurner
Hubert de GivenchyFundación Colección Thyssen-Bornemisza
Yves Saint Laurent's Studio: Mirror and SecretsActes Sud/Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent
Fashion Independent: The Original Style of Ann Bonfoey TaylorPhoenix Art Museum
VanityModerne Kunst Nürnberg

Arthur Elgort: The Big PictureArthur Elgort: The Big Picture

Published by Steidl.
Foreword by Grace Coddington. Text by Martin Harrison.

This is Arthur Elgort's (born 1940) first comprehensive book, showing his world-renowned fashion imagery alongside his personal work. The Big Picture spans Elgort's five-decade career and illustrates his longevity as an emulated fashion photographer. His lively and casual shooting style is significantly influenced by his lifelong love of music and dance, particularly jazz and ballet. Elgort's 1971 debut in British Vogue created a sensation in the fashion world where his soon-to-be iconic snapshot style and emphasis on movement and natural light transgressed norms of fashion photography. Elgort subsequently rose to fame working for such distinguished magazines as American, French and Italian Vogue, Interview, GQ, Life and Rolling Stone and shooting advertising campaigns for fashion labels including Chanel, Valentino and Yves Saint Laurent.

PUBLISHER
Steidl

BOOK FORMAT
Clth, 12.75 x 10 in / 424 pgs / illustrated throughout.

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Catalog: FALL 2014 p. 46   

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Vogue: Like a PaintingVogue: Like a Painting

Published by Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza.
Text by Lucy Davies. Preface by Yolanda Sacristán.

Vogue: Like a Painting is a lavish celebration of the intersection between the worlds of fashion photography and European art historical tradition. Compiling 67 carefully selected images from the Vogue archive, the volume explores fashion photographs of the last eight decades that take their inspiration from classical painting--those images that have become only marginally related to selling clothes (or perhaps all the better at it for their painterly invocations). Sometimes explicitly--we see direct homages to Vermeer and Hopper, for example--and sometimes more subtly, these images culled from Vogue's pages reference Spanish painting from the Golden Age, Dutch portraiture, Victorian and Pre-Raphaelite paintings and various schools contained in European royal collections. Traces of Constable, Zurbarán and Sorolla can be found within this volume, which brings together names from classic photography and those from more recent generations: Irving Penn, Erwin Blumenfeld, Horst P. Horst, Annie Leibovitz, Tim Walker, Paolo Roversi, Steven Klein, David Sims, Erwin Olaf, Mario Testino, Michael Thompson and Peter Lindbegh, to name a few. While some of these photographs are about direct mimicry, others are similar to painting only in technical approach--and some simply share the goal of revering women rather than sexualizing or objectifying them. With a gorgeous tipped-on cover and text by Lucy Davies, editor at The Telegraph, Vogue: Like a Painting is a volume produced as beautifully as its photographic contents.

PUBLISHER
Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza

BOOK FORMAT
Clth, 9.5 x 12.5 in. / 160 pgs / 59 color / 8 bw.

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Catalog: SPRING 2016 p. 30   

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ISBN 9788415113683 TRADE
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Terence Donovan FashionTerence Donovan Fashion

Published by Art / Books.
Edited by Diana Donovan, David Hillman. Preface by Grace Coddington. Text by Robin Muir.

Terence Donovan was one of the foremost photographers of his generation--among the greatest Britain has ever produced. He came to prominence in London as part of a postwar renaissance in art, fashion, graphic design and photography, and--alongside David Bailey and Brian Duffy (photographers of a similar working-class background)--he captured and helped create the Swinging London of the 1960s. Donovan socialized with celebrities and royalty, and found himself elevated to stardom in his own right, and yet, despite his success and status, there has never been a serious evaluation of Donovan’s fashion work: he allowed no monographs to be published during his lifetime. Terence Donovan Fashion is therefore the first publication of his fashion photographs. Arranged chronologically, and with an illuminating text by Robin Muir (ex-picture editor of Vogue), the book considers Donovan in the social and cultural context of his time, showing how his constant experimentation not only set him apart, but also influenced generations to come. Designed by former art director of Nova magazine and Pentagram partner David Hillman, and with images selected by Hillman, the artist’s widow Diana Donovan and Grace Coddington, creative director of American Vogue, this volume is indisputably a landmark publication in the history of fashion photography.
Terence Donovan (1936–1996) is regarded as one of the foremost photographers of his generation. From the beginning of the 1960s until his death more than 30 years later, he shot regularly for magazines such as Vogue, Elle and Harper’s Bazaar. He also directed some 3,000 commercials, the 1973 movie Yellow Dog and numerous music videos, for Robert Palmer’s “Addicted to Love” and “Simply Irresistible” among others.

PUBLISHER
Art / Books

BOOK FORMAT
Clth, 10.75 x 13.25 in. / 240 pgs / 113 color / 64 bw.

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Pub Date
Out of print

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Catalog: SPRING 2013 p. 38   

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ISBN 9781908970022 TRADE
List Price: $100.00 CDN $120.00

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F.C. Gundlach: Photographic WorkF.C. Gundlach: Photographic Work

Published by Steidl & Partners.
Text by Klaus Honnef, Sebastian Lux, Ulrich Rüter, Hans-Michael Koetzle.

The photography of F.C. Gundlach defines the look of post-war fashion in Germany. Using strong contrast effects, he was able to create a style that unified model, clothing and backdrop into a single composite, merging, for example, in one famous series, the bold stripes of an Op Art jacket with the pyramids at Giza beyond, or clustering a model in boa feathers within a phalanx of police officers. During the four decades following the end of the Second World War, Gundlach worked for high-circulation magazines in Germany such as Film und Frau, Constanze, Annabelle, Stern and Quick. In 1963 he signed an exclusive contract with the magazine Brigitte, and from this point on he began to embody the image of 60s couture photography in Germany, with his frequent borrowings from Op and Pop art idioms. Born in 1926, Gundlach was also the founder of the photographic supplies company PPS and the PPS Galerie, one of the first photo galleries in Germany, and has done much influential work as a lecturer and exhibition curator. This monograph, the first in English to offer an extensive consideration of Gundlach’s oeuvre, and co-designed by Gundlach himself, establishes his significance as a trailblazer in the industry.

PUBLISHER
Steidl & Partners

BOOK FORMAT
Hardback, 10 x 12 in. / 386 pgs.

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Catalog: SPRING 2008 p. 57   

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ISBN 9783865215949 TRADE
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Arnold Scaasi: American CouturierArnold Scaasi: American Couturier

Published by MFA Publications.
Text by Pamela A. Parmal.

Barbra Streisand, Natalie Wood, Arlene Francis, Diahann Carroll, Joan Rivers, Mamie Eisenhower, Barbara Bush, Louise Nevelson... What these women have in common is that all were dressed by Scaasi. From his meteoric rise on Seventh Avenue in the late 1950s through his heyday in the boom decade of the 1980s, Arnold Scaasi has remained one of the most distinctive and successful designers in American fashion. With his signature combination of elegance, flamboyance, surprising colors and fabrics, and finely honed craftsmanship, Scaasi is both a bold American original and a couturier in the grand European tradition. Arnold Scaasi: American Couturier presents the best of Scaasi's fashions in a handsomely packaged, fluidly organized volume. Alongside sumptuous portraits of more than three dozen outfits, the book features numerous period photographs; sketches, notes and clippings from Scaasi's personal archives, most of them never before published; and interviews with Scaasi's famous clients, such as Joan Rivers, Mary Tyler Moore and Diahann Carroll, conducted specifically for this volume. A feast for fashion watchers and design aficionados alike, American Couturier contains all the glamour and thrill that for decades have been synonymous with the Scaasi label.
Arnold Scaasi (born 1931) apprenticed at the House of Paquin in Paris, before moving to New York to work with Charles James. In 1956 he began a ready-to-wear line; in 1968, he caught the eye of a worldwide audience when Barbra Streisand wore his overblouse and pants ensemble to collect her Academy Award for Funny Girl, making Scaasi a household name overnight.

PUBLISHER
MFA Publications

BOOK FORMAT
Clth, 8.5 x 11.5 in. / 192 pgs / illustrated throughout.

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Catalog: FALL 2010 p. 173   

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ISBN 9780878467587 TRADE
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Jesús del PozoJesús del Pozo

Published by Turner.
Text by Vicente Verdú, Juan Gatti, Toni Miró, Sofía Torga, Isabel Yanguas, et al.

In this homage to Spanish fashion designer Jesús del Pozo (1946–2011), del Pozo's employees, loyal customers, friends and peers in the fashion world contribute reflections on the man and his influence on fashion and design. Del Pozo founded his brand in Madrid in 1974 with a menswear store, and it expanded to include women's and men's ready-to-wear collections, opera costumes and fragrances over the years.

PUBLISHER
Turner

BOOK FORMAT
Clth, 11.20 x 12 in. / 240 pgs / 180 color.

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Catalog: SPRING 2015 p. 160   

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ISBN 9788416142682 TRADE
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Hubert de GivenchyHubert de Givenchy

Published by Fundación Colección Thyssen-Bornemisza.
Text by Hubert de Givenchy, Philippe Venet, Eloy Martínez de la Pera, Igor Uría, Lourdes Fernández, Paula Luengo.

Published on the occasion of the first major retrospective of the work of the great French fashion designer, this volume celebrates a key twentieth-century creator and a living legend in the history of haute couture. The exhibition, devised by Hubert de Givenchy himself and curated by Eloy Martínez de la Pera, provides an exceptional survey of the couturier's creations over nearly half a century, from the opening of the Maison Givenchy in Paris in 1952 to his professional retirement in 1995. A hundred or so of his finest pieces selected from museums and private collections all over the world, many of them never previously shown, establish a dialogue in the Museum's galleries with a group of works belonging to the Thyssen-Bornemisza collections.
Hubert de Givenchy (born 1927) was born to an aristocratic family in Beauvais, France. After completing his studies at the École des Beaux-Arts, Givenchy worked for several fashion designers, including the avant-garde Elsa Schiaparelli. In 1952 he opened his own fashion house, his style markedly innovative compared to the conservatism of his contemporaries. He was, at age 25, the youngest couturier of the Parisian fashion scene. Thanks to his elegant, feminine designs, the Givenchy brand soon became synonymous with Parisian chic, and the designer is known for dressing celebrity icons such as Jacqueline Kennedy, Audrey Hepburn and Grace Kelly.

PUBLISHER
Fundación Colección Thyssen-Bornemisza

BOOK FORMAT
Hardcover, 9.5 x 12.75 in. / 160 pgs / 85 color / 23 bw.

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Catalog: SPRING 2015 p. 53   

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ISBN 9788415113591 TRADE
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Yves Saint Laurent's Studio: Mirror and SecretsYves Saint Laurent's Studio: Mirror and Secrets

Published by Actes Sud/Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent.
Text by Jérômine Savignon.

The name of Yves Saint Laurent, one of the great fashion designers of the twentieth century, evokes the now-iconic looks he helped popularize as part of the modern woman's wardrobe: the Le Smoking tuxedo jacket, the pea coat, the Mondrian dress, the jumpsuit. But seven years after Saint Laurent's death, the man himself remains an enigma and a source of fascination (two Yves Saint Laurent biopics were released in 2014). In Yves Saint Laurent's Studio: Mirror and Secrets, the first book to be published by the Fondation Pierre Bergé with Yves Saint Laurent, fashion historian Jérômine Savignon invites the reader into the designer's studio, revealing Saint Laurent's approach to fashion and design. Illustrated with more than 40 previously unpublished photographs, this volume offers a fresh, behind-the-scenes glimpse at the work of this iconic fashion designer.
A precocious talent, Yves Saint Laurent (1936–2008) started work at the venerable fashion house of Christian Dior at the age of 18. He started his own design house in 1961 with his partner Pierre Bergé. Saint Laurent was one of the first designers to hire nonwhite models, and the first to lend his name to a ready-to-wear line while maintaining his haute couture business. He became the first designer to be honored with a Costume Institute retrospective at The Metropolitan Museum of Art during his lifetime, with a 1983 show organized by Diana Vreeland, who called him the "Pied Piper of fashion," because "whatever he does, women of all ages, from all over the world, follow."

PUBLISHER
Actes Sud/Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent

BOOK FORMAT
Hardcover, 4 x 7.75 in. / 142 pgs / 40 bw.

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Catalog: SPRING 2015 p. 51   

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Fashion Independent: The Original Style of Ann Bonfoey TaylorFashion Independent: The Original Style of Ann Bonfoey Taylor

Published by Phoenix Art Museum.
Edited by Dennita Sewell.

Ann Bonfoey Taylor (1910-2007) was a pioneering female flight instructor during World War II, was a member of the US Olympic Ski Squad in 1939, competed in tennis at Wimbledon and was accomplished at riding and shooting. Recognized among an international jet-setting social circle as a wonderful hostess at her magnificent homes in Colorado and Montana, Taylor also played a leading role as a style icon. She was captured in photographs by artists such as Edward Steichen, Louise Dahl-Wolfe and Toni Frissell, and was regularly featured in publications such as Vogue, Town and Country and Harper's Bazaar from the 1930s through the 1970s. In 2008, her extraordinary wardrobe of couture and custom-designed sporting ensembles was donated to Phoenix Art Museum. Selected by Art and Antiques as one of the top 100 art museum gifts of 2008, Taylor's impressive collection features works by some of the most masterful fashion designers of the 1950s and 60s, including Charles James, Balenciaga, Givenchy and Madame Grčs. The collection is significant for both the quality of the designers and for its depth, as the numerous examples allow for a comprehensive look at each designer's artistic process. Fashion Independent: The Original Style of Ann Bonfoey Taylor features more than 60 full ensembles and accessories that provide a comprehensive look at the wardrobe of a dynamic and sophisticated woman.

PUBLISHER
Phoenix Art Museum

BOOK FORMAT
Clth, 9.5 x 12 in. / 140 pgs / 130 color / 15 bw.

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Catalog: SPRING 2011 p. 173   

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VanityVanity

Fashion Photography from the F. C. Gundlach Collection

Published by Moderne Kunst Nürnberg.
Edited by Gerald A. Matt, F.C. Gundlach, Synne Genzmer. Interview by Gerald A. Matt. Text by Isabelle Azoulay, Synne Genzmer, Fréderick Monneyron.

In capturing and choreographing the ephemeral postures, gestures, facial expressions and clothes that compose our conceptions of beauty, fashion photography documents the evolution of culture itself and mirrors an era’s attitude toward life. Vanity Fair presents some 200 works of fashion photography from the F.C. Gundlach Collection, one of the most comprehensive private photography collections in the German-speaking world. Landmark photographs are set alongside unknown pictures, from the late 1920s through the Second World War up to the present day. Among the photographers included are Richard Avedon, Lillian Bassman, Cecil Beaton, Sibylle Bergemann, Erwin Blumenfeld, Guy Bourdin, Louise Dahl-Wolfe, Ralph Gibson, F.C. Gundlach, Horst P. Horst, George Hoyningen-Huene, William Klein, Nick Knight, David LaChapelle, Edgar Leciejewski, Zoe Leonard, Leon Levinstein, Peter Lindbergh, Gjon Mili, Sarah Moon, Armin Morbach, Irving Penn, Melvin Sokolsky, Deborah Turbeville, Yva, Imre von Santho and Wols.

PUBLISHER
Moderne Kunst Nürnberg

BOOK FORMAT
Paperback, 8.5 x 11.25 in. / 256 pgs / 200 color.

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Catalog: SPRING 2012 p. 36   

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ISBN 9783869842707 TRADE
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